Nestled in the heart of Kagurazaka, Shinjuku, lies Mikaeshi Yokocho – an enchanting alley that literally means “the street that makes you look back.” True to its name, this charming district captivates visitors with an irresistible blend of traditional charm and modern sophistication that indeed makes everyone turn for a second glance.
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A Cultural Crossroads
This intimate alley represents the perfect fusion of old and new Japan. Hidden in Kagurazaka’s backstreets, Mikaeshi Yokocho hosts an eclectic mix of establishments – from traditional Japanese eateries to contemporary bistros, artisanal cafes, and carefully curated antique shops. Each venue tells its own story, contributing to the alley’s unique character.
Rich Heritage
Mikaeshi Yokocho’s story is deeply intertwined with Kagurazaka’s heritage as a former geisha district. The area’s Edo-period roots are still visible in its stone-paved paths and preserved wooden architecture. Yet, it has gracefully evolved, embracing modern influences while maintaining its historical essence. Today, centuries-old ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurants) harmoniously coexist with innovative contemporary establishments.
Culinary Excellence
The heart of Mikaeshi Yokocho beats strongest in its diverse dining scene. Here you’ll find:
– Time-honored Japanese restaurants serving seasonal kaiseki cuisine
– Intimate French bistros offering carefully curated wine lists
– Cozy cafes that transform into atmospheric bars after sunset
– Family-run establishments where recipes have been perfected over generations
What sets these venues apart isn’t just their culinary expertise – it’s the warm hospitality that makes every visitor feel like a regular. Each establishment maintains its unique character while contributing to the alley’s collective charm.
Beyond Dining
While food may be the initial draw, Mikaeshi Yokocho offers much more. Art galleries showcase contemporary works alongside traditional pieces, while antique shops hide treasures waiting to be discovered. The atmosphere shifts gracefully from day to night, offering different experiences with each visit.
Surrounding Attractions

Institut Français de Tokyo
The area around Mikaeshi Yokocho amplifies its appeal:
– Bishamon Zenkoku Temple, a historic Edo-period temple
– The main Kagurazaka Street, lined with boutiques and traditional shops
– Institut Français de Tokyo, offering regular cultural events
– Quiet residential areas featuring preserved traditional architecture
Getting There
Finding this hidden gem is surprisingly simple:
– 5-minute walk from Kagurazaka Station (Tokyo Metro Tozai Line)
– 7-minute walk from Iidabashi Station (JR Sobu Line and Tokyo Metro Namboku Line)
– Well-connected by buses from major Tokyo areas
Whether you’re a food enthusiast, culture lover, or simply seeking an authentic Tokyo experience, Mikaeshi Yokocho offers a glimpse into a Japan where past and present dance in perfect harmony. It’s not just a destination – it’s an experience that, true to its name, will have you looking back for more.
Experience a Japanese Snack-bar with a fun guide tour
After you enjoy the place, you can go to Snack Bars, beloved by many but you can’t enter without a guide. You can enjoy communication with the owner and other customers, as well as singing karaoke, allowing for a relaxing time.
Most snack bars have a policy of refusing entry to foreigners. However, with a tour, you’ll have a guide, so you can enter with peace of mind.
When visiting Japan, don’t just check off the tourist spots –
dive into local experiences for an unforgettable journey!
Once you experience it, you’ll be captivated too! The charm of snack bars.
New encounters with people! The camaraderie of singing at a snack bar! Conversations with the mama-san!